The 2007 Riesling G-Max represents as usual Keller’s top selection, from a parcel whose precise identity he prefers not to divulge. Pungently redolent of citrus oils, diverse herbs, and brown spices, this comes to the palate full of pit fruits as well as citrus, herbs, and spices; with gripping intensity and piquancy; but at the same time creamy richness, as well as some of the remarkable sense of interplay between fruit and mineral elements that characterized the Morstein. To combine the ultra-concentration of these elements without tipping into bitterness, all the while while retaining a persistent sense of energy and lift, is the great accomplishment of this wine that too few Grosse Gewachse come close to achieving. That said, is isn’t as though this G-Max is as utterly in a class by itself among Keller’s top Rieslings as had been the case in 2006, because this year – in his own words – all of the fruit for the top dry wines “was just perfectly beautiful.” If you’re lucky enough to land some of this, don’t plan on drinking the last of it for at least two decades.